Barging in France: Canal du Midi

Discover Minerve

In the south of France, the Canal du Midi cuts through picturesque and tranquil countryside – home to award-winning vineyards, fields of wild flowers, and animals grazing in the sunshine. One popular stop along the canal's corridor is the village of Minerve, named one of "Les Plus Beaux Villages de France" (The Most Beautiful Villages of France).

Drifting along aboard a hotel barge during a barging cruise on the lovely Canal du Midi, you would be forgiven for thinking that this region, Languedoc-Roussillon, is a place where peace has always reigned.

Minerve, the ancient capital of Minervois, sits atop a rocky outcrop at the junction of the Cesse and Brian Rivers, and many consider it to be the quintessential medieval village. First founded in the 8th century, it is surrounded by deep limestone gorges and offers magnificent views of the countryside. Along the riverbed are caves and bridges carved out of limestone by the power of the water. An octagonal tower, "La Candela," is all that remains of the medieval castle. It is famously remembered as the site of the first mass burning of Cathar heretics during the Albigensian Crusade of the 13th century. A small museum in the center of the village recalls this gruesome chapter of its history.

The 10th century Church of St-Stephen contains a 5th-century altar, thought to be one of the earliest Christian altars in Europe. It is inscribed with the initials and names of the inhabitants of the town who swore to God they would pay their taxes while under Visigoth rule.

This region has seen upheaval and turmoil over the course of its long history. Yet beneath its undeniable beauty and charm, Minerve is the site of tragedy and violence.

Minerve and the Albigensian Crusade

During the 13th century, a new Christian movement was on the rise in Languedoc-Roussillon. Members of this new movement, the Cathars, believed in the equal and opposing forces of God and Satan, and advocated a return to the Christian message of poverty, perfection, and preaching.

In 1209, Pope Innocent III initiated a military campaign to eliminate Catharism from the Languedoc-Roussillon region, an effort that became known as the Albigensian Crusade. After a devastating massacre at the town of Béziers, a group of Cathars sought refuge in Minerve, which was well-fortified with a strong defensive position above the junction of the Cesse and Briant rivers.

For six weeks the crusaders, led by Simon de Montfort, besieged Minerve with trebuchets and other weaponry. When the village eventually fell, the Cathars remained defiant and 140 Cathars chose death by burning rather than renounce their faith.

Minerve Today

Today Minerve is quiet and tranquil, though several monuments and some original stone fortifications stand to remind visitors of the Cathars' sacrifice. If you're visiting Minerve as part of one of our Canal du Midi barging cruises, you can explore its steep and narrow streets, perhaps stopping to sample the local Minervois wine at one of the charming cafés. The village, which allows no vehicles except for those belonging to its residents, maintains much of its medieval atmosphere, so you can get a real feel of what it was like to live there in the time of the Cathars.