Barging in France: Burgundy
Châteauneuf-en-Auxois
Châteauneuf-en-Auxois, 30 kilometres south-west of Dijon, is an attractive hilltop village, best known for its castle, was once an important stopping point on the pilgrimage route through the region. Château de Châteauneuf-en-Auxois, played an important defensive role for the road leading to Autun.
The Old New Castle
Châteauneuf is French for "new castle" which it was back in the 12th century. The castle was built in 1132 by Jean de Chaudenay for his son Jehan, who took possession of it in 1175 and became Jean I de Châteauneuf. The original 12th-century square tower built by the sons of Jean I (Jean II, and Jean III) still stands.
The castle stayed in the same family for nine generations until 1456 when the last heiress, Cathérine de Châteauneuf, who some suspected of already killing her first husband, poisoned her second husband Jacques d'Haussonville. She was burned alive as punishment for poisoning her second husband.
In 1457, Philippe le Bon, Duke of Burgundy, gave the château to his advisor and godson, Philippe Pot, was given the castle and all the decorative elements that you can see today.
A copy of Philippe Pot's effigy can be seen in the chapel. He designed it himself and decided that no matter what, his family should be seen to mourn him. The hooded figures that surround him represent various branches of the family, denoted by the heraldic shields they hold. The original effigy now resides in the Louvre Museum in Paris.
In the 14th century during the Hundred Years War, the substantial towers and defensive walls were added. The castle was again substantially modified in the 15th century and the living accommodation added to make it a more pleasant place to live.
The surrounding village developed around the castle during the 12th - 15th centuries, and many of the houses to be seen date from that time. The town center of Châteauneuf-en-Auxois contains many fine merchant houses from that period, built in the local yellow-white stone and having several interesting features and decorated façades to discover as you tour the area.
In the 17th century, the Vienne family purchased the castle and adorned it with Renaissance-styled interiors. Plush in color and textiles, it showed off their wealth and power, particularly as this was only their weekend home. (Their main home was Château de Commarin, a short distance further up the valley.) The French Revolution in 1789 destroyed the opulence of the château. Many artworks, statues,and heraldic symbols were ruined or defaced. The results of this ransacking can still be seen at the château today, with mock-ups to show what they looked like before.
Modern-Day Châteauneuf-en-Auxois
The family's descendants owned the Châteauneuf castle until just prior to World War Two. The castle never quite returned to its former glory and, in 1936, the Count Georges de Vogüé donated Châteauneuf to the State. Since 2008 the castle has belonged to the Burgundy-Franche-Comté Regional Council who are continuing restoration work to make it the key showpiece in a regional heritage and culture project. Now considered a time capsule of architecture, the castle is slowly being restored using traditional methods and you can watch its history unfold as you walk through its rooms and courtyards. Besides being a major tourist attraction, the castle is rooted in the collective memory of the region and is part of its very identity.
The Medieval Village
A small medieval village sits behind the castle walls, with narrow streets and cobbled alleyways connecting them. Have a wander about to see merchants' houses with towered staircases, and beautiful flowers climbing up walls, while glimpsing intricate detailing and amazing views between the buildings.
The village itself is currently home to about 90 people, a good portion of whom are artists and artisans. Art galleries delight the senses, filled with everything from large wooden animal sculptures to vista paintings, snail-inspired jewellery and castle-inspired treasures for visitors to take home as souvenirs. There is also an assortment of cafés, bars and restaurants set among the ancient buildings where you can enjoy a coffee and have the chance to peek inside these beautiful medieval houses.
At the top of the village, through the north gate there is a walkway past walled gardens. It brings you to a panoramic viewpoint looking down over the canal. The various reservoirs that feed the canal can be seen dotted across the countryside, with the pretty village of Pouilly-en-Auxois, the highest point on the Burgundy Canal, visible in the distance.
Ready to Visit Châteauneuf-en-Auxois?
Discover Burgundy with a barge cruise aboard French Hotel Barge l'Impressionniste. Their online brochure has many details about the barge, itineraries, photos, videos, pricing, availability, etc. Contact Paradise Connections – we are happy to assist with your barging vacation.
Learn about the Canal de Bourgogne
- History of the Burgundy Canal
- Canal de Bourgogne: An Overview
- Canal de Bourgogne: Towns & Villages
- Canal de Bourgone: Best Places to Visit
- View more links about Burgundy
- View French Hotel Barge l'Impressionniste's online brochure for more details.