Alternate Barge Cruise Itinerary
L'Art de Vivre — "Hidden France" Alternative Itinerary
L'Art de Vivre offers an alternative itinerary through the hidden heart of Burgundy – La France Profonde – where time slows and life follows the gentle rhythm of the canal. Cruising the tranquil Canal du Nivernais, often called the prettiest in France, guests discover a side of Burgundy few ever see, from ivy-clad lock houses and peaceful meadows to forested stretches known as La Petite Amazonie.
The following departures are scheduled for this alternative itinerary:
- July 19-24, 2025
- July 25-August 1, 2025
Barge L'Art de Vivre cruises one of France's longest-established canals, the Canal du Nivernais in Burgundy. This region of Burgundy with its charming villages and centuries-old history is truly fascinating.
Sunday, Day 1 - Paris to Chevroches
Guests are met at the Hotel Westminster in Paris at 2pm and transferred by private chauffeured minibus to the pretty L'Art de Vivre. The Captain and crew welcome you aboard with Champagne Welcome and there is time for a stroll along the towpath before dinner on board.
Monday, Day 2 - Chevroches to Tannay
This morning, during breakfast, we cruise along the Canal du Nivernais to our first port of the week at Tannay, past fields of grazing Charolais, ancient hamlets and such interesting feats on engineering as a double-lock. After lunch on board, we visit the ancient fortified town of Avallon, perched high above the Cousin Valley. Its 12th-century Church of Saint-Lazare still bears fine Romanesque carvings, while the medieval ramparts and watchtowers recall its strategic importance. Terraced gardens, first tended in the 10th century, cascade down the hillside, offering spectacular views. Guests can wander Avallon's cobbled lanes and arcaded squares, lined with stone houses and inviting shops, before returning to the barge. Dinner on board.
Tuesday, Day 3 - Tannay to Monceaux Le Comte
Our morning excursion takes us to the hilltop town of Vézelay, one of Burgundy's most celebrated treasures. The great Basilica of St Mary Magdalene, a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, once drew pilgrims from across Europe setting out on the Way of St James. Its sculpted capitals and luminous nave still inspire awe today. From the ramparts, there are far-reaching views across the vineyards and fields of the Morvan. Guests have time to explore Vézelay's art galleries, wine cellars, and narrow streets that have welcomed travellers for centuries. Following time to explore the town for yourselves, we return to L'Art de Vivre for lunch on-board and a relaxing cruise to the small village of Monceaux-le-Comte, passing beneath Van Gogh-style hand-operated lifting bridges and a perfect opportunity to enjoy a walk or cycle along the towpath. Dinner on board.
Wednesday, Day 4 - Monceaux le Comte to Chitry-le-Mines
After a short introduction to the wine-growing region, its terroir and its history overlooking the Grand Crû vineyards, we make a private visit to the prestigious Domaine Laroche for a tour and wine-tasting, at the 1000 years old Obédiencerie. Originally part of the monastery of St. Martin, this is where the monks developed the craft of winemaking in the Middle Ages and to this day it remains the location for aging the Premier and Grand Crû wines. Lunch will be served by a private chef in the monks' former refectory. Later in the afternoon we return to the barge to cruise the scenic route to Chitry-les-Mines, again with excellent walking and cycling opportunities along the way. Dinner on board.
Thursday, Day 5 - Chitry-le-Mines to Sardy-lès-Épiry
This morning we continue our cruise through the remote countryside and meadows of "France Profonde" to moor at Sardy-lès-Épiry. En route you will notice that the locks are a lot older with their huge beam-levered lock gates and ivy-covered lock-houses. Following lunch on-board, we visit the elegant Château de Bazoches, dating to the 12th century. Once a stronghold on the route to the Crusades, it later became the residence of Maréchal Vauban, Louis XIV's military engineer, who drafted many of his fortification plans here. Visitors can admire the château's panelled salons, armoury, and Vauban's private study, before stepping out to enjoy panoramic views of the Morvan hills. Dinner on board.
Friday, Day 6 - Sardy-lès-Épiry to Baye
This morning we enjoy our final cruise, ascending a magnificent staircase of 16 locks, which are sometimes less than 200 yards apart. Alongside each lock is a pretty waterfall-weir and some of the lock-houses are now craft shops, which can be visited whilst you stroll or perhaps cycle alongside the barge. Many consider this stretch of canal to be one of the most beautiful in all of France. We continue on through the deep trench known as "La Petite Amazonie", overgrown with trees and with waterfalls lining its walls, it is like cruising through another world. The boat then glides through the three tunnels of La Collancelle to arrive at our final mooring near the lake in the little port of Baye. In the afternoon, we set out on a guided walk through the Forest of the Morvan to the Gallo-Roman village of Compierre. Here, the main street and the foundations of shops, houses, and a temple remain clearly visible, evoking the life of a bustling community nearly two millennia ago. Abandoned in the 4th century, Compierre offers one of the most evocative glimpses of rural Roman Gaul to be found in France. Captain's Farewell Dinner tonight.
Saturday, Day 7 - Baye
After breakfast, guests are transferred to the Hotel Westminster in Paris arriving at approximately 12 noon.
NOTE:
- This is a sample itinerary and is subject to change.
- The itinerary is in reverse direction on alternate weeks.
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